The wait for a table can be brutal (up to two hours, they’ll text you), but from the moment you step in, you’ll forgive them.

Get the carbonara for two: it arrives on a trolley in a parmesan wheel, where it’s twirled and whirled around, picking up more bits of cheese along the way, then finally lifted high and plopped on to each plate. Rich and moreish, its creamy, peppery, cheese-flecked sauce also came studded with morsels of guanciale (cured pork).